Cholón Bay, Barú Island: What It Is and What It's Like to Stay On It

Quick answer

Cholón Bay is a shallow bay on the southern side of Barú Island, roughly 30 minutes to an hour by boat from Cartagena, and it is best known as the anchorage where Cartagena's day-trip party boats tie up in waist-deep water beside thatched huts selling fried fish. The boats arrive mid-morning and are largely gone by evening. We sit on the same bay, on the hill above the Ciénaga de Cholón, which means you can watch the anchorage from a balcony and paddle the mangroves behind it once the music has moved on.

A balcony with a table, chairs and a view over the water at Cholón Bay
Looking out over the Ciénaga de Cholón from one of our balconies.

What Cholón Bay actually is

Cholón is a shallow, sheltered bay on the southern side of Barú Island, south of Cartagena, and its reputation rests on one thing: it is where Cartagena's boat parties drop anchor. Locals built palm-thatch shelters out in the water itself, standing in about waist depth, and boats tie up around them for the day. Lunch is fish, eaten at a table that sits just above the waterline. Travel writers who have been going since the early 2010s describe the same scene now that they did then, with more boats in it.

You will also see it written as Isla Cholón or Cholón Beach. It is not really an island of its own. It is a clearing in the trees and mangroves at the edge of Barú, with a small strip of sand, and the water is the venue.

When the anchorage is busy, and when it isn't

The crowd runs on the day-tour clock. Shared party boats out of Cartagena check in around 8am and run seven to eight hours, so the bay fills through the middle of the morning, peaks in the afternoon, and empties as the boats head back for the harbour. Evenings belong to the people who stayed.

That rhythm is the single most useful thing to know before you book anything here. A day trip buys you the loud half. Staying on the bay gives you both halves, and the quiet one is the reason we built where we did.

Where we are on the bay

We're on Bahía de Cholón, on the hill above the water. Our balconies look straight out over the Ciénaga de Cholón, and the houses were designed by Simón Vélez and Gustavo Pinto in guadua bamboo and timber, which is why the rooms are open to the air rather than sealed against it. Six bedrooms across the property, each with its own ensuite. Kayaks are at your disposal from the house, and the water is directly accessible, though it is unguarded and you swim at your own risk.

What that position gives you is a choice most day visitors never get. You can go down into the anchorage when it is at full volume, and you can be back above it, on a balcony, twenty minutes later.

Getting here from Cartagena

The journey takes 30 minutes to an hour from Cartagena on our boat. From Rafael Núñez International Airport, door to door is about an hour, and we ask that you leave us three hours before your flight departs on the way out. We can arrange airport transfers in both directions.

Reserve the boat. Our boat has a limited capacity, and if you aren't reserved and there's no space, it is a long wait until the next one. This is the part guests most often leave to chance, and it is the part with the least give in it.

The quieter water behind the bay

The mangroves of Barú sit immediately behind the anchorage, and they are a completely different proposition: flat water, shade, and birds. Dawn is when they are worth your time. Take a kayak out before breakfast and the noise of the previous afternoon is difficult to imagine.

Further out, Corales del Rosario National Park protects the reef system off this stretch of coast, and it is the reason the water here is clear enough to be worth swimming in at all.

On land, Bocachica is the village to see if you want the island as it actually is. It has no running water and no paved roads, and no chic restaurants or bars either. We tell guests this plainly rather than let them arrive expecting otherwise. Go for the place, not for the amenities.

Day trip or stay

Here is the honest comparison. A shared boat trip to Cholón is the cheapest way to see the bay and the right choice if the party is the point. You get the anchorage, lunch, a few hours in the water, and a ride home.

Staying puts the bay on the other side of your window for as long as you want it, and it changes what you can do with the early and late hours: kayaking, birdwatching, and an empty stretch of water at the end of the afternoon. It also means the logistics happen once, at the start and at the end, rather than every day.

If you're bringing a group, the whole property can be taken as a private villa buyout, six bedrooms sleeping up to fourteen, with no other guests on site. No events, no pets and no smoking on the property.

Know before you come

Every guest is registered on arrival with a valid passport or Colombian ID card. Foreign residents pay no tax on accommodation. For Colombian residents, IVA is already included in the rate. We charge a resort fee of 20 USD per night: city hotels are connected to public utilities, and out here we are not.

The mangroves set the pace. That is the appeal and it is also the limitation, and it is worth being clear with yourself about which one you're booking.

Common questions

How do you get to Cholón Bay from Cartagena?

By boat. The crossing takes 30 minutes to an hour from Cartagena on our boat, and from Rafael Núñez International Airport door to door is about an hour. We can arrange airport transfers both ways. On departure day, plan to leave us three hours before your flight.

Do I need to reserve the boat in advance?

Yes, and it's the reservation that matters most. Our boat has limited capacity. If you aren't reserved and there's no space on board, it's a long wait until the next crossing.

Is Cholón worth visiting if I don't want a party?

Yes, but time it. The shared party boats out of Cartagena check in around 8am and run seven to eight hours, so the anchorage is loudest through the middle of the day and thins out by evening. Early mornings and late afternoons on the bay are quiet, and the mangroves behind it are quiet at any hour.

Can I visit the local village?

You can. Bocachica is a village with no running water and no paved roads. Do not expect chic restaurants or bars. It is island life as it is actually lived, and it is worth seeing on those terms.

Are there extra fees on top of the room rate?

We charge a resort fee of 20 USD per night. Foreign residents pay no tax on hotel accommodation in Colombia, and for Colombian residents IVA is already included in the rate.

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